TRUEGRID | PRO LITE Permeable Pavers | Designed as Driveway Pavers, Grass Pavers, Shed Base, Patio Pavers, RV Pad, Gravel, DIY | Outdoor Pavers | 120,000 lb Load Class | Pack of 18 (72 Square Feet)

Absolutely love these! I drive skid steer, mule, F250, lawn mower, wheelbarrow, dolly, EVERYTHING over this and it never budges, crimps, or breaks. Very easy to install. Way too pricey but more than worth it. I filled with peddle stone and it looks amazing. Everyone compliments the path. I bought the cheaper option for an adjacent non heavy weight bearing walkway and it came up almost immediately and trips me on the daily, doesn’t hold its shape and in general is horrible. Pay a little extra and get this awesome product instead. I’m going to rip out the other stuff and replace with this product (at the next sale event!). If I could afford it I’d do my entire driveway! Also doesn’t collect water, drains very well, and is really beautiful.

I figured out how to make the path curve AFTER putting the first 35 feet down. At first I offset them, and that looks GREAT, but it also makes for a more narrow path.... I made a pathway through my woods just one tile wide, and that's not a lot. Major paths should be 2 squares wide with smaller paths one tile wide. Oh well, looks great. Water flows over and through the gravel, and I'm not dealing with mud anymore, which was the purpose of this project. Once I layed the next 4 boxes, I figured out the S pieces in the tiles allow for curving the path. You need to put a tile down, lock in place, put gravel down on the last tile, then push the tile into position, and place a big rock to KEEP the tile in place... dump gravel, and keep moving. Make sure you don't put too much gravel down at first. You want the grid to hold the gravel in place, so water and blowers don't move it around. If you need to move the tiles AFTER you put down gravel, there's no good way to DO that IF you have to lift a tile to get the last tile UP, so 90% research, and 10% execution. Plan this out. Order what you need. A ton of gravel covers about 200sq ft at 1 inch depth. Make sure you have the gravel dumped in a place that's convenient to your project and not in the way.. I put a tarp down first, and that was a good choice. Crushed river rock looks great for my purposes. I put medium, large, and small rocks on either side of the trail.... thicker on one side, then the other to enhance the appearance of a meandering trail... just lovely! This product isn't cheap, but it's forever, and it's solid. No more time and money wasted on pine straw. I also down a path on my somewhat steep hill. It's in the rock garden, and matches the stones perfectly. I have a flat surface to walk, roll a wheelbarrow, etc. It was a 2 day job.... one day to put down the grid. A day to fill with gravel, and place rocks back.

So far, I have used it in three applications. One was in front of a shop in my backyard where water stood after a rain. I put a layer of white rock, then the TrueGrid Pavers, and filled them with angled black rock. No more water problems, and looks good. Had a number of tree roots I had to work around, and the TrueGrid pavers were easy to fit using a skill saw. The second application was on a walkway to a grill in my backyard. As the walkway approached the deck the grill sat on it sloped down. Problem - this would accumulate water. Put the TrueGrid pavers down, and again cut them easily to fit the form of the walkway. Put rubber pavers over the True Grid pavers. Ended up solving the water problem by lifting the walkway and yet providing drainage since the TrueGrid pavers are about one inch. Used no gravel in these and yet the walkway over them is solid. You would not know the rubber pavers were not on solid ground. The third application was to extend my driveway. Again, the problem was drainage, and in this case, if cars parked there, ruts. I had thought about using regular pavers, but there are are a bunch of roots and I would have had to dig deep enough to make a base of sand for the pavers and the width of whatever pavers I used. Digging down through roots three to four inches did not sound appealing. With concrete, again there is the problem of digging far enough down to lay a good base and use either wire or rebar. Then there is the work involved in mining the cement. Using the TrueGrid pavers I only had to go down one inch, level the ground, lay the pavers on it and fill them with angled black rock. Works perfectly. Heavy pickups can park on it with no. give, no ruts, and yet it allows excellent drainage. Glad I found this stuff. I have some other projects I intend to use it on. Check out their web site for examples of personal and commercial use and it will also give ideas as different ways it can be used. No, I do not work for them nor receive any compensation for this review - it's just good stuff and made right here in the Houston, Texas, area.

I used these for a small driveway/patio access area that needed to be fully permeable to surface water. Installation was completed by excavating into the rocky/gravely clay subsoil, leveling the area was a challenge but provided an excellent base for woven geotechnical fabric and paver installation. The TrueGrid units installed easily by using a table saw to rip down grids to the correct dimensions and click together in place. Steel landscaping staples were applied on the crossbar cells, then over filled with 3/4" crushed gravel, raked to level surface and compacted. This creates a very stable surface for rolling tires: bikes, cars and trucks. As we progressed into our project I used a skid-steer loader to distribute gravel and topsoil. This was fine for straight travel over the new sections of TrueGrid/gravel, turning a skid-steer on this surface was too much lateral torque and the grids were ripped up underneath, torn and fully exposed. A skid-steer moves by turning the right and left wheels in unison, independently or in opposite directions simultaneously. This was along the edge of the installation, where they were unsupported by neighboring grids, along an interface with concrete slab. In fairness, the same maneuver in loose gravel would have displaced a lot of rock. When the grids are displaced gravel immediately gets underneath and creates a raised section that only exacerbates the problem. It quickly becomes an unstable slip plane extending like a blister under the grids. With continued use the affected grids are completely torn out of the installation (see reference photo where I have removed some of the surrounding gravel to expose the affected grids.. While it was only 2 sections of grid that were displaced, the repair work to restore a level surface was not easy. Fortunately I had a few leftover grids from the original installation. I found it was easiest to cut out the interlocking tabs with an oscillating saw, then remove the damaged sections. The gravel must be completely excavated from the affected grid area in order to repeat the installation process. If I had to do it again, I would use an empty shop vac to clear the gravel. It took me about 2 hours to remove and fully reinstall two grid sections. Note to buyer: load ratings are apparently only for typical unidirectional-drive rolling vehicles, this product did not hold up under significant lateral/twisting loads. For the time and money, this product improves a permeable gravel surface application giving greater stability and expectation for longer gravel retention if installed with fabric underlayment. This is ideal for applications where improving groundwater replenishment and reduction of stormwater runoff is desired, or to establish a quick and reasonably stable ground surface. If it is displaced, expect a long and challenging process to repair, unlike a traditional gravel roadbed—you can't just rake it out level again.

Was able to put a more solid surface down where I take my dumpster out to the curb. As always, it was a quick installation and works for what I wanted it for.