Igus DryLin W1040-A Linear Guide Camera Slider

I use this with a GH2. Mounted a Manfrotto 501 HDV on the slider, attached my tripod below the rails, and the system works beautifully for both slider motion as well as panning. Tilting presents a bit of a problem. When I try to tilt up, it increases the friction on the back rail and tilting down puts pressure on the front rail. I have to manually apply pressure with the hand that's moving the slider to compensate so I can get a smooth motion. It works fine but is tricky to get it right. Moving front to back is easier to tilt than side to side.It was a little work to drill the holes but worth the savings over the predrilled version. The slider has nice, smooth motion and there are screws in the slider designed to allow you to adjust the friction and even lock the slider down. Be careful not to get them too loose or the slider will have some wobbling on the tracks. I only use two settings, locked and 5 clicks looser than locked (the screws ratchet which is nice for finding the optimal setting and keeps them in place). The screws are tightened with an allen wrench so it is a little cumbersome (hand screws would be nicer). If anyone finds some hand screws that could replace those in the slider please reply to this review and let me know.The rails are sturdy, but with the weight of my head and camera there was some bending on the outside edges when I had my tripod mounted in the center. I think it would bow even with a lighter 701 head + camera because my 501 alone causes it to bow a little. I've since mounted my tripod on one end and use a light stand on the other end. Getting a good level track was tricky at first but I've gotten good results by adjusting my tripod first so it's level, then move my head and camera to the center of the track and raise the light stand on the other end until the bubble level on my tripod head reads level.Some complain because there is no stopper at the ends but a few cents for a 1.5 inch metal L bracket and a bolt to secure it in place using the predrilled hole at the end made a simple solution to this problem although it is not as pretty as the machined rails. There is a groove in the bottom of the rail that fit my bracket perfectly so once it was tightened there was no movement.I had a hard time finding a good way to transport it but found a padded 40" bag by CobraCrane that fits it perfectly and has a padded divider so my tripod, Manfrotto 501 head, and light stand go on one side and the slider on the other so there is no bumping in transport and it's an all in one convenient bag. There are some short comings to this slider when compared with a $1000 Kessler CineSlider but for 1/10th the price, there is nothing on the market that comes close to the value of this slider. A solid 5 star rating for this slider that's perfect for amateurs with light rigs.

Note that you will have to do a little work to mount this. While the holes in the rails are drilled, they are not tapped. You will need to use a 3/8"-16 tap to be able to mount this on a normal tripod (you unscrew the tripod head and screw this down if your head doesn't feature 3/8" mount). You will also need to create a camera mount. The easiest thing there is to use a 3/8" bolt and screw the tripod head you just removed onto the carriage, but you will have to drill the hole for that into the carriage.Remove the drylin bearings and keep them far, far away from any drilling, tapping, or other metal working. You do not want aluminum shavings getting in them. Clean the rails gently before reassembly so said metal shavings do not scratch anything. If you unscrew the bearing mounts, you will have to re-align them or you will have "sticky" points. There is a video on the Igus site about how to do this. If you think you need to lubricate the rails, you are most likely out of alignment or your load is not balanced properly. The rails will support more weight than the tripod you mount it on assuming you are in this price rage at all (and if you have a $4000 tripod, why are you skimping on a slider?). Watch the aligning video, and repeat that process as needed, tightening each screw a little at a time. It makes a huge difference in how the system works.Once you have the mounting system set up and the bearings aligned, the slider does a fine job with cameras in the 3-5 pound (1-2Kg) range. If using the slider like a dolly (so the camera is pointed down the rail), anything over two feet gets tricky to use as the rails will show in the shot without extreme measures. The 1 meter (39inch) length is good for portability and still providing a long enough track for a decent shot. A heavy camera will cause issues at the ends if you use only one tripod to support it from the center.I realize a lot of this is more how-to than review, but getting the how part right will greatly affect your experience when using one of these. As with all things video, practice makes better. All said, this is a wonderful platform for DIY sliders. The wider systems might be easier to balance, but will be more expensive. My Nex VG20 is a little front heavy with the stock lens, but I intend to address that with an adjustable plate soon.

I use this slider sparingly in my small filmmaking company. It is great to have a low-cost, highly durable item such as this to add a bit of variation and production value in a snap. It does not a complete solution to higher cost *true* sliders on the market (and definitely not full dolly or jib); however, it does do a great job. For anyone who is looking to begin adding slider shots to their work, experiment, or believe they will only occasionally be using these types of shots, this is without a doubt the best solution. The main drawbacks of this system (besides the very *slight* DIY aspect for some people) have to do with speed. First, it takes a bit of effort and time just to adjust the bearings on a frequent basis-- for people who put any physical demands on their equipment, this could be every time you pull it out. Also, it takes a bit of practice to make the shots smooth (higher end sliders take practice, too, it must be noted), especially if your bearings are slightly out of adjustment-- one trick is to use a rubber band to help smooth your pull, like smoothing a pan on a fluid-head tripod. By saying that it takes a lot of practice, I don't just mean getting used to using it before a shoot, but also that you'll need to set up your shot in production and then spend a lot of time practicing and adjusting in the field to get it right.I think it's a great product, absolutely satisfied that I've got it in my pack, but knowing what its drawbacks are will also help you use it more effectively and appropriately.